DIY - Complete 32/36 Weber DGEV Install

From G1 Prelude

NOTES: I take no responsibilities in any mishaps or damages done to you or your car with this DIY.

This is to take a stock '79-82 EK1 1.8l CVCC carb off your engine and to bolt on a brand-new 32/36 WEBER with adapter plates and have it start up the first time. This will also work for any Accord with the EK1 (late 1st gen, early 2nd), a few things may be slightly different depending on your options. The following DIY was done on a 1981 Prelude with a recent 1982 EK1 engine swap from an '82 Prelude.

EL 1.6 non-CVCC owners should use the same carb and adapter kit. Redline confirms the CVCC adapter plates will work with non-CVCC intakes. I cannot personally confirm this.

You'll need the following to proceed with the DIY:

  • (1) - Part# K725, 32/36 Weber DGEV WEBER Carburetor w/ Electric Choke (#22680.033B Carb #)
  • (1) - Part# 99004.120, CVCC Adapter Plates w/ Hardware (Redline Fuel Management sells these)
  • (1) - Cable Bracket Hardware
  • (1) - Chrome Air Filter or equivalent that fits a WEBER.

Replacement Parts

  • Part# 99217.3325, Air Filter
  • Part# 99005.068, Carb Base Gasket
  • Part# 99007.116, Linkage Kit
  • Part# 57804.333, Electric Choke


Tools you'll need are:

  • Socket Set
  • Screwdrivers (Phillips & Flathead)
  • Combination or open-end wrenches
  • 6mm Allen Wrench
  • Gasket Scraper Knife (this is debatable on how bad your gaskets are)
  • Wiping Rags & Cleaning Solvents
  • Gasket Sealer (Do not use Silicone or RTV)

Click on the following links and PRINT these out directly from REDLINE! This is what was included with our kit that we bought directly and vital to the install.

1. First thing first, locate your favorite beverage, turn on the radio and get ready to enjoy yourself when tearing out all the fun with the Keihn Carb and it's life lines.

2. Next park the car in a suitable spot and open the hood. Disconnect the battery and remove the gas cap (to relieve the pressure in the fuel system).

  • Note: Please do this when the car is cold and not warm. If you ran the car, please let it cool down for an hour before touching anything inside the engine bay or else your come out with some battle burns.

3. Now the fun. Look at your air box assembly and take off the cover. Unscrew the two bolts holding it to the stock carb and lift up. There will be hoses and such underneath (air temp sensor and such). Unplug them and unplug you air cleaner hose going to the front of the car.

4. Next locate the three black boxes on the firewall with all the vacuum lines going in them. (May be only two black boxes depending on your model type). Lift these straight up out of their brackets and follow the vacuum lines slowly to the carb and starting unplugging.

  • NOTES: There will be an endless supply of hoses being unplugged so don't fret, everything will be alright.

5. Next locate the fuel line and disconnect it while holding a rag so you don't get gas everywhere. It should be on the right side of the carb with a red braided line (ours was replaced at some point so it was black).

6. Next unplug all the electrical connections. There should only be a few for the choke and other sensors.

7. Unplug the black boxes and lift up all the vacuum lines with them. There will be a long, molded together cluster of metal pipelines behind the carb with lines coming out it. Take this out too alongside the boxes.

8. Once you have it all out, throw it in a box and say good by. Might be a good idea to keep a few hoses for future use in case you need one.

9. Remove the charcoal canister and it's hoses. You don't need this anymore too.

10. Now that everything is off the carb, it's time to remove the bastard of a child Keihn. It's bolted down with (4) 12mm nuts. Get a wrench and undo all four bolts. Life the carb up and make sure you take the gaskets with it. Also be careful when unplugging the throttle cable and not to kink it. You should be left with a cleared intake opening and four studs sticking up.

11. Next remove the studs but doing the double nut trick. Thread a nut halfway done the stud and than thread another nut on the stud till it meets the first nut. Take two wrenches and tighten them against each other, so this way you can than take a wrench and turn the bottom nut, which in turn will unscrew the stud. Works like a charm every time!

12. Next you'll be left with this.

13. Now's a good time to clean off any gasket baked on the intake or left over when you pulled off the carb. Ours was surprisingly clean.

14. Now it's adapter time. Take the CVCC weber adapter (Ours was Part# 99004.120 from Redline) and lay it out.

15. Next take the Bottom Plate Gasket and place it on the intake like so. (All the gaskets and plates are laid out in the picture above in order)

16. Apply gasket sealer and than take the bottom adapter plate and lay on top of the gasket while lining up the holes. Find the included (4) 8mm tapered Allen screws and screw them in as so.

17. Next lay the intermediate gasket on top of the bottom adapter plate while applying a small amount of gasket sealant on it.

18. Now find the Top adapter plate and locate the included Power Brake Booster fitting. You'll need to screw this in to the side of the adapter so you'll have vacuum for your breaks. Don't want to crash now do you?

19. Take a small break and admire the beauty of the CVCC intake. Isn't it just dull with having two chambers instead of one. If you know nothing about CVCC, go find an article http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CVCC and read up. Maybe with some dremeling and some clever marking, you could cut out the barrier and make it one chamber while smoothing the opening.

20. Locate the 4 studs included with the kit and get out the pliers. Slowly turn the stud into each of the holes, being careful not to go no further than the bottom of the plate. I found that it eventually got harder to turn as you touch the bottom plate so no worries, just stop turning it.

21. Next put the carb gasket on with some gasket sealer.

22. Now it's time to mount the shiny new toy!

23. Before we install it, we need to adjust the throttle linkage just a bit. Take the carb and turn it around until you see this.

24. Take off the small nut keeping the throttle assembly together and take off the following. (There may be a little tab you have to bend around the nut to get it to turn.)


25. Find the throttle bracket equipment included with your WEBER (if you bought this as a kit) and replace it with the following pieces.

26. Find the little nut with two studs on opposite ends with tons of washers already on it. This is what your cable will connect too. Unscrew the nut on the studs and take the washers off. The opposite side should have a little pin you'll need to bend straight and pull out. This is also the end you want to have connected to the throttle plate you just added on.


27. Position the WEBER on the studs accordingly to the picture, keeping the fuel line openings to the right of the engine and the throttle linkage to the left side. Go ahead and bolt it down with the supplied four nuts, tightening in a X pattern.

28. Wrap the throttle cable around the back of the engine, under the intake and curve it so it meets up to the throttle linkage. There will be an included bracket (which I did not a take picture of) that bolts down on the rear two studs on the carb) You can see in the picture below This may require a little working to get it to fit right.

29. Feed the throttle cable through bracket and lead it to the linkage you just put on. Now tighten the end of it down as so. There will be play but you can adjust the tightness by the two adjusting screws on the cable at the bracket you just fed it through. You can see these also in the picture.

  • NOTES: As you can see, I had to adjust the cable to give me the almost maximum shortness on the cable. It works but I plan on updating this DIY with a newer throttle linkage setup so there isn't so much slack.

30. Make sure the throttle opens and closes. You'll also want to run the included the spring on the back of the throttle assembly so when you let off the gas, it brings the assembly back to it's closing position. Placing a spring on the plate with all the holes and running the spring to somewhere near where you can hook it onto is the best setup. For ours, we ran it to the bolts on the valve cover for the time being.

31. Next take the hose for the fuel line you unplugged and hook it up. If you have a return line (second line coming out of it), just stick a bolt in it to block it off. It's only to circulate the fuel back to the gas tank and the carb worked fine without it.


  • NOTE: We later had some leaking at the mini fuel filter on this line and just replaced with a solid one line coming from the firewall to the carb. Works like a charm. Granted this was ok for the first startup, I highly recommend adding an inline filter between the carb and the firewall for safe measure. '82 EK1 engines had a secondary fuel filter here for a reason and actually installed it on older engines when customers had carb issues. You cannot use the original secondary fuel filter, so source a small replacement inline filter.

32. Next hook up the electronic choke on the front of the carb. Run a wire from it to the choke wire on the fire wire coming out of the engine harness. This wire is black with a yellow stripe on it. If you don't have this, find a suitable wire that has 12v's when you turn on the ignition but cuts off when the car is off.

33. Hook up the brake booster line to the brake booster connection on the adapter plate. Straight forward hookup. Be sure you have the check valve still in the hose to the booster. DO NOT USE A NEW VACCUM LINE WITHOUT THE CHECK VALVE. We found out the hard way you will ruin your brake booster because moisture and blow by will go back in the booster ruining the seals. Dissembling and finding all the seals damaged was not fun. You can use a vacuum line from a newer Honda with the check valve if needed too.




34. Next run a hose from you distributor to the additional vacuum port on the front of the carb.





35. Now it's time to finish our setup with it's crown! Place the air cleaner gasket on top of the carb and than place the filter tray, bolt down the 4 bolts and clamp on the air filter with it's cover.




36. Once this is done. Make sure you have the following hooked up correctly: - Fuel line - Choke wire - Throttle cable (a little slack is okay, but you want enough to open the throttle) - Distributor vacuum line

37. Reconnect the battery and put the fuel gas cap back on.

38. Now the moment of truth. Double check everything once more. Get your tools out of the engine back and lets fire her up. Give it a little gas as you attempt to turn the engine over as the fuel bowls in the carb need to be filled up, but don't over do it. You can flood the carb at this point so it's best to watch the bowls fill through air filter with the cover off. There are two small windows you can see into.

39. If she fires up, run it a little bit and than turn it off. She should purr and run smooth. Note any hiccups or sounds (especially vacuum leaks) as she's running for the moment.

40. Re-check everything (especially your fuel line) and than start it back up.

  • NOTES: If it idles high, put your foot under the gas pedal and lift towards you. You can also take you finger and press back on the throttle linkage as it's most likely binding a little. *

So there you have it! Kick back and crack open a cold one cause you just upgraded your crappy old Keihn carb to the world of WEBER.

1/30/12 UPDATE

After a few months of installing the carb, we ran into some tuning issues and by far the best opinion I can give you to have your Weber start up the first time is to adjust the choke. It almost seems like the chokes get banged around in the box, shipped through hot or cold climates, or just sit on a shelf for a long time. To adjust the choke, follow these simple steps and hopefully yours too will start right up like mine and my friends.

Reset Choke Adjustment (Based off Weber Instructions )

  • First the engine must be cold or at 20°C/68°F before doing this.
  • Push down on the throttle to activate the High Idle. (This will hold the throttle back slightly to allow cold starts and let the engine rev higher to warm up).
  • Take off your filter assembly so you have access to the chokes butterfly plates.
  • Take note of where the plates are, they should be fully closed once the High Idle is activated for warm up. If not, don't worry.
  • Look at the choke assembly and see where the choke is in relation to the butterfly plates. Scratch a small mark on the choke collar or ring that is held on by 3 screws.
  • Loosen the three hex screws on the collar to loose the choke.
  • Hold the throttle down 1/3 open
  • Slowly turn the choke counter-clockwise till the butterfly plates are closed and flushed. (May need to turn the choke clockwise to achieve this as well)
  • Once the plates are closed, rotate the choke an extra 1/8" counter-clockwise.
  • Tighten the three hex screws on the collar to hold the choke, don't over tighten.
  • Start engine and hopefully it will start on the first try. (If not, don't worry as the fuel bowl might need to fill up)
  • Since the High Idle was activated, the engine should now slowly rev up in rpms to warm up.
  • Take the time to adjust the High Idle so you have the engine revving up to a good rpm. 1.5K is a good point. To adjust, start the engine, find where it stops at on the rpms, turn off the engine and adjust the High Idle screw. Start engine again and repeat till your happy with the results. Do this with the engine cold.
  • Next adjust the idle speed screw, adjacent with the throttle plate, and get it to where you need it set. 800-900 rpms is a good point.

Here are 2 quick pics of the choke and the terms I'm referring too!